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CARE OF GUINEA PIGS

  The guinea pig or cavy is a docile animal, which can make a very good pet when properly handled and cared for.  They can live for 6 or 7 years and are easy to look after. 

 Housing  

  Cages should be as large as possible.  The best materials for cages are plastic, metal or wire.  Wood shavings or shredded paper make good bedding material.  Extra bedding material should be used during the whelping and nursing periods.  Cleaning should be done at least once a week using a detergent and hot water, followed by a thorough rinse.  Guinea pigs are best kept at a room temperature between 18ºC and 24ºC and away from drafty areas.

 Diet 

  Guinea pigs are creatures of habit and are fastidious eaters.  There is a premium guinea pig food Cavy Cuisine available at WinRose.  Cavy Cuisine is the first timothy-based guinea pig feed on the market.  It is designed especially for the adult guinea pig to prevent obesity and maintain a healthy urinary tract and digestive tract.  This food should be supplemented with fresh Timothy hay (also available at WinRose) and fresh greens.   Cavy Performance is a high-fiber, alfalfa hay-based feed for the young guinea pig.

·          Sipper tubes are a good method of providing a daily supply of fresh water.

·          In order to keep the teeth trimmed, give a hard alfalfa block, a honey stick, or a Milk Bone dog biscuit once a week.

  Guinea pigs require daily supplementation with vitamin C. Cavy Cuisine and Cavy Performance include "Stay C-35", a stabilized form of vitamin C that has a six month shelf life. To guarantee that your guinea pig is consuming an adequate amount of vitamin C, be sure your pet is eating the amount of Cavy Cuisine or Cavy Performance  indicated below.  In addition, give your guinea pig 1 Oxbow apple-flavoured GTN-50C tablet twice each week to ensure that s/he does not become Vitamin C deficient.  If your guinea pig is eating any other type of pellet, give 1 GTN-50C tablet daily.

Fresh Food Choices

Guinea pigs will not eat what they don't like: some cavies have very discriminating tastes, while others will eat anything that you put in front of them. Each pig has it's own preferences, and it may take some time to figure out what s/he likes best.

Additions to the guinea pig’s diet should be made carefully. The majority of the diet, at least 85-90%, must be the balanced ration. Fresh foods should not make up more that 10-15% of the daily consumption. Any change in the guinea pig’s diet should be made gradually due to their sensitive digestive systems.

In addition to the hay and pellets, a variety of fresh vegetables, particularly leafy green vegetables should be offered daily. Avoid iceberg (head lettuce) as it has very little nutritional value. Good choices include kale, spinach, turnip greens, parsley and dandelion greens, all of which provide vitamin C. Carrots, carrot tops, and just about any other fruit or vegetable can also be fed. Leafy greens should make up the bulk of the vegetable supplementation, and fruits and other vegetable can be offered in moderation.

Given below is a list of foods that guinea pigs can/will eat. This list is neither comprehensive nor complete.

Apples, pears, bananas(including the skin-but wash well first), bread (slightly stale & crunchy, but not moldy), broccoli, carrot greens, carrots and baby carrots, celery (very important to cut into small pieces first), cilantro, cucumber, dandelion greens, grass, green & red bell peppers, green leaf & romaine lettuce, kale, kiwi, mustard greens, oranges, parsley, raspberries, spinach, tomatoes, seedless grapes, cabbage, and cauliflower stalks.

When feeding "wild" greens, such as grass and dandelion greens, make sure they have not been sprayed with chemicals, or contaminated by droppings or urine from other animals.

Some foods to avoid are listed below:
• long celery stalks (the "strings" in celery are difficult to digest); cut them into small pieces
• iceberg lettuce (high in nitrates, no nutritional value)
• any shelled nuts or seeds (guinea pigs can choke on the shell fragments)
• raw beans (poisonous)
• rhubarb (extremely poisonous)
There is some confusion as to whether or not potato peelings are good or bad: some books indicate that they are poisonous to guinea pigs, while others say that they are okay in small amounts. The truth is that potatoes are okay, however, any green in a potato is poisonous. So, if you do give potato or peelings, make sure there are no green spots anywhere in the portions and they have been washed thoroughly.
Also, be aware that many fresh greens are laxative in action, which means that you run the risk of giving your guinea pigs loose bowels, or even diarrhea, if you feed them too much at one time. If you notice runny droppings, immediately cut fresh greens out of their diet and feed dry foods until the feces returns to normal. Vegetables that are not laxative (such as carrots) may still be fed.

Treats

There are several commercially available treats on the market that are aimed at guinea pigs. Berry flavored "crunchies" and flavored chew sticks are popular among some owners and guinea pigs, and are generally safe. Some owners also have experimented with vegetarian dog biscuits and dry cereals such as Cheerio's. However, you should be wary of the guinea pig "treat sticks", which are also available commercially. These sticks are essentially seeds and nuts that are held together with honey. Most of the treat sticks on the market contain sunflower seeds that are still in their shells, which is a big no-no for guinea pigs due to the choking hazards.

 Behaviour

When guinea pigs are frequently and gently handled, they make good pets.  They will rarely bite or scratch.  They do scatter their bedding and feed throughout the day.  As they mature, they develop rigid habit patterns.  Any changes in feed, feeder or waterer may cause the guinea pig to stop eating and drinking.  

 Breeding

  If you will be breeding your guinea pigs, the female should be bred before 7 - 8 months of age.  Breeding for the first time after this age can lead to problems during delivery due to a narrow birth canal.

  Guinea pig young are born fully furred with eyes open and teeth erupted.  They are nearly self sufficient at birth and require little hand rearing if orphaned shortly after birth.  After 48 hours, the young guinea pigs can be fed guinea pig chow softened with water or milk.  

  Facts and figures:  

  Common Problems

  Ptyalism (slobbers) - This is wet matted hair around the mouth, chin and under the neck.  This is frequently caused by malocclusion of the premolars, which are continuously growing.  Sometimes they overgrow and cause drooling and an inability to chew.  Veterinary attention is required.

  Scurvy (vitamin C deficiency) - Signs of scurvy include unsteady gait, limping, bleeding from gums, weight loss, enlarged joints, crusted eyelids, or hair loss.  Scurvy can be prevented by a daily supplement of vitamin C along with feeding vegetables high in vitamin C.

  Pregnancy toxemia - If a pregnant guinea pig becomes less active or has diarrhea, add 1 teaspoon of sugar per cup of water.   Seek veterinary assistance immediately!

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