Caring For Your Iguana 

Owning an iguana requires providing special care, constant attention and a complete commitment to the animal's well-being.  However, if you are willing to accept the responsibility of caring for these unusual creatures, you will find the experience extremely rewarding.  Your iguana can reach 6 1/2 feet so you must be prepared to accommodate an animal of this size.   

Feeding

   Start your iguana on the proper diet from the moment you bring it home.  Feed it a variety of finely chopped food daily.  Protein must be included in the diet.  The recommended combination is 1/3 protein and 2/3 vegetables.

Protein 

• Recent evidence suggests that animal protein such as dog food, chicken, etc. are very hard on kidney function and should not be fed to adult iguanas.  Vegetable protein such as tofu and legumes (lima beans, garbanzo beans, kidney beans, etc.) are better and more natural protein sources. 

Young iguanas, however, should be offered small amounts of animal protein.  

None of these should be fed to the exclusion of any other.  Variety is essential but stick to the protein sources listed here.

Vegetables 

• Feed primarily greens such as turnip, beet and carrot tops, spinach, collard, mustard or alfalfa sprouts.  Broccoli, green beans, corn, carrots, peas and lima beans are also fine. 

• Do not feed lettuce; that way, it can never become a "lettuce junkie".

• Serve vegetables fresh and uncooked.  Frozen vegetables, thawed and uncooked, are also acceptable.

Variety foods 

•  Feed fruits in small amounts, only occasionally.

• Dandelions, clover, rose petals and hibiscus flowers (without pesticides or herbicides) are well-liked and good for your iguana.

Supplements 

• A vitamin-mineral supplement formulated for reptiles such as Nekton-Rep should be sprinkled lightly on the food.  If your iguana is on an excellent diet, use the supplement twice/week.

• Additional calcium is essential for your iguana.  Crushed human calcium tablets, cuttle bone or powdered calcium carbonate sprinkled on the food daily are excellent.

Feeding Schedule 

• Feed your iguana daily until it is 1 1/2-3 feet long.  You can then feed it 2-3 times per week.

Home Sweet Home

   When you are home to supervise, your iguana can be allowed free run of your house to follow you about or to bask in a warm ray of sun but make sure that it does not eat something it shouldn't or injure itself.  However, a permanent cage is required to provide a constant temperature and safe environment for when you are unable to supervise.

Lighting 

•   Ultraviolet light must be provided for your iguana to produce Vitamin D3 within its body.  Pet stores carry special lights designed for this purpose ("Vitalites").  These lights should be on for 10-12 hours per day.  "Grow" lights are not adequate, nor is sunlight through a window pane.       

Click Here for more information on UltraViolet Light for Reptiles  

• A night/day transition is important because iguanas are used to sleeping in the dark.  About 12-14 hours of light and 10-12 hours of dark each day are recommended.

Temperature 

•  During the day, keep the temperature at 80-85⁰F.  It is essential that at least one "hot spot" be provided which is kept at 90-100⁰F.  A heat lamp or reading lamp rigged up over the cage will make a great "basking" area.  We do not recommend hot rocks.  They are very prone to malfunctioning and will cause severe thermal burns on the iguana's underside.   

•  In the evening, lower the temperature to 70-75⁰F. by turning the lights off in the cage.  Supplemental heat under the cage can be from a heating pad, heat tape or a water bed heater (this is actually the best option).

• A thermometer in the habitat will allow you to monitor the environmental temperature.

Home Furnishings 

• The best materials for the cage bottom are newspapers, brown paper or, for a more decorative touch, indoor-outdoor carpeting.  However, twice a week cleaning is necessary with carpeting.  Newspapers or brown paper should be changed at least twice weekly.  Do not use gravel, sand, kitty litter or crushed corncobs.  They can be accidentally swallowed and cause intestinal obstructions.  They also make the environment too dry.

• Your iguana's habitat should also include a shallow bowl of water that is large enough for it to climb into and soak in.  The bowl should be scrubbed out daily, not just rinsed and refilled.  Spray your iguana occasionally with warm water.

• You should also provide a low branch or shelf in the warmest area of the habitat, as well as plastic or silk plants, rocks (to help them to shed) and logs for decoration.    

   As you can see, reptile care is a challenge and that iguanas are special pets that require special owners.  If you feel up to the challenge, then go ahead, dive in and enjoy!  Remember that constant observation will keep you tuned to subtle changes that may indicate that your iguana is sick.  Call your vet immediately if you think there is a problem.  The earlier he is treated for a disease, the more likely he will recover.